How often do you get the chance to stay within the walls of an ancient city? And because this is the off-off-off season, when we awoke this morning and went out looking for a place to get a cup of coffee, we couldn’t find one. But then, we also couldn’t find a whole lot of tourists, either. Which meant our amble along the cobbled street was very quiet. I can imagine this place is a total tourist trap during the summer, but right now, it’s not so hard to consider what life would have been like when throwing boiling oil was considered a form of home protection.